Soldering
Tools
General
Historically
soldering tips were copper, placed in braziers. One tip was used;
when the heat had transferred from the tip to the solder (and
depleted the heat reserve) it was placed back in the brazier of
charcoal and the next tip was used.
Much
later gas irons were in common use. These used a gas jet to heat the
soldering bolt/tip. They are very fast, but require significant
amounts of experience to properly regulate the temperature.
Currently,
electric soldering irons are used; they consist of coil or ceramic
heating elements, which retain heat differently, and warm up the mass
differently, internal or external rheostats, and different power
ratings - which change how long a bead can be run.
Soldering
Irons
The
iron used to solder must be of a high enough wattage to readily melt
the solder and be able to reheat fast enough to maintain the
necessary melting temperature. The tip can't be so small it can't
maintain the heat nor so big it covers more area than wanted.
For
example a 75 or 80 watt iron is sufficient to begin soldering with,
but it will continue to get hotter, as it has no temperature control.
An iron of this type should be used with a rheostat in order to
prevent overheating while it is idling. You should be aware that even
with a rheostat, it will eventually reach its maximum temperature, so
cannot be left on for long. Also leaving an iron idling will
contribute to the rapid deterioration of the tip.
Most
temperature controlled irons seem to be produced in 100 watts or
more. These internally temperature controlled irons maintain a
constant temperature. These are normally supplied with a 700F° bit
(number 7) and are sufficient to melt the solder without long
recovery times. You can obtain bits of different temperature ratings,
commonly 800F° and 600F°. You can also use several sizes of tips
for different detail of work.
For
soldering leaded panels a 100w iron with a 10 mm temperature
controlled tip that maintains a constant 370°C (700° F) is
suitable.
For
copper foil a higher temperature controlled tip is used. This
normally runs at 425°C (800°F). Sometimes a tip of 6 mm is used
where more delicate beads are being run, but be aware that the tip
will cool off much more quickly than 10 mm tips.
If
a lot of soldering is required that has sustained heat requirements,
you might consider a 200W iron. These can deliver heat more quickly
and evenly than those with lesser wattage.
People
often want to have variable temperatures for decorative soldering.
It
is recommended to use a rheostat in circumstances where the soldering
iron does not have an internal temperature control.
Action
of a Rheostat
A
rheostat is NOT a temperature controller.
A
rheostat actually reduces the power supplied to the iron, thereby
making it take longer to heat or re-heat after a period of soldering.
With or without a rheostat, if an iron is left idle, it will
eventually reach its maximum temperature. This is usually too hot for
soldering lead, but OK for joining other metals. With a rheostat, if
an iron is left idle with the rheostat set to (say) '6', it will
still reach its maximum temperature but very much slower than the one
without a rheostat.
Action
of a Temperature Controlled Iron
Temperature
controlled soldering irons attempt to maintain a set temperature.
This is controlled by the combination of the microchip in the iron
and the tip. So to adjust your temperatures all you need is a few
different tips. For example, a number 7 tip lets your iron heat to
700F degrees. For decorative soldering your need tips of lower
temperatures, usually a number 6 or 600F degree is enough of a
reduction for most decorative stuff. A number 8 tip (800F) will let
you work more quickly.
Differences
in Soldering Speed
Using
an iron without a rheostat, provided you work relatively quickly, you
will probably be able to solder all the joints in a small or medium
panel without stopping to let the iron 'catch up'. In this case the
temperature is controlled by the heating power of the iron balanced
by the cooling effect of making the soldered joints.
Using
an iron with a rheostat, you will need to slow down a little if you
are to do that same panel without stopping to let the iron re-heat.
In this case the temperature of the iron is controlled by the
(reduced) heating power of the iron balanced by the same cooling
effect of making the soldered joints.
This
difference is caused by the fact that a temperature-controlled iron,
if it is left idle, it will quickly reach its maximum operating
temperature - just as quickly as an uncontrolled iron of the same
power. When you start soldering, the cooling effect will trigger the
temperature controller to provide full power until the operating
temperature is reached again.
Advantages
of a Temperature Controlled Iron
You
can buy an iron (not temperature controlled) and a rheostat but
buying tips for the temperature controlled iron is cheaper. The big
advantage of the temperature-controlled iron is that you know it will
never get too hot for the work you are doing, and that it truly
provides that 100 watts (or whatever) power to keep it hot even when
you are soldering at top speed.
Soldering
Bit Composition
Most
bits are made of copper, which is suitable because of its excellent
thermal conductivity and high heat content per volume. Some bits are
plain copper, while others incorporate various additives or have a
protective plating applied.
One
of the most common problems associated with plain copper bits, is
that tin-lead alloys (more specifically the tin in the alloy) will
attack the copper, dissolving it away. This makes it necessary to
continually file the bits to maintain the required shape, giving
these bits a shortened working life. Another concern is the amount of
impurity that is imparted to the solder joint when using bare copper
bits.
Adding
tellurium to the copper improves both wear and oxidation resistance,
but does not protect the tip from rapid deterioration. It has been
determined that both iron and nickel, despite their low conductivity,
are wet-able, offer a high level of resistance to erosion and their
heat per volume is close to that of copper.
Because
of these facts it is possible to maintain good conductivity, while
increasing the erosion resistance by plating copper bits with either
nickel or iron. These plated bits are generally referred to as
nickel-clad, or iron-clad and make up a large majority of the bits in
use for modern soldering applications.
Courtesy
of American
Beauty Tools
Soldering
Bits
Type
The
bit type is determined by the soldering iron it is used on. There are
screw type bits (bits that screw onto, or into the solder iron
element), slip on bits that slip over the element and plug type bits
that slide inside of the element. There are even bits that are a
permanent part of a replaceable element/bit assembly. Regardless of
the type of bits required it is always important to have them fully
seated to the element and periodically cleaned, in order to maintain
proper heat transfer from the element into the bit.
Configuration
The
bit configuration to use should be determined by the intended
application requirements. Some of the basic bit configurations
available include ballpoint, conical, diamond (pyramid), chisel, and
spade. You will find that there are usually a variety of styles, or
modifications available, within each of these basic configuration
families, to accommodate specific application requirements. Although
less efficient, a more narrow configuration is sometimes required to
obtain accessibility, or to achieve the desired results.
Size
The
bit size to use (regarding the working portion) should also be
determined by the intended application requirements. The bit body, or
shank must be matched to the iron it will be used with (always select
a bit that was designed, or approved for the soldering iron you
intend to use on the application being considered). As with bit
configuration though, there are usually a variety of modified working
diameters available within each family of standard bit sizes that are
available. These modified bits are generally referred to as turned
down bits, because the working area of the bit has been turned down
to a smaller diameter than the body, or shank diameter. Turned down
bits are not as efficient, but are sometimes required to solder in
otherwise inaccessible areas.
Courtesy
American
Beauty Tools
Choosing
the Soldering Bit
An
important consideration, when choosing the most appropriate bit, is
that thick, short bits will store more heat and deliver it more
efficiently than long, narrow ones. This makes the standard chisel
configuration the usual bit of choice. The chisel shaped bit is often
used for joining flat seems together. The working edge of the chisel
bit should be about the same width as (or slightly wider than) the
seam that is being soldered.
Usually
a solder connection is made in one to three seconds. If the
connection takes longer than three seconds, you may need a larger
bit, a higher wattage iron or a completely different type of
soldering equipment altogether. It is a good idea to familiarize
yourself with other soldering methods and equipment that are
available in order to ensure that you are utilizing the best, safest,
most efficient and economical means available to perform your
soldering application.
Courtesy
of American
Beauty Tools
Soldering
Bit Maintenance
If
a bit has not been properly tinned, solder will not wet to it.
Without solder on the bit heat transfer from the bit to the work
surface may become extremely difficult and time consuming, or even
impossible.
You
must understand that proper wiping and continuous wetting is
important and a lot easier than continually having to clean and
re-tin the bit, especially at the risk of damage to the plated
surface because of accidentally scratching, or over abrading it.
[Many soldering stations come with
a sponge which, when wet, is used to wipe the iron's tip clean. A
small amount of fresh solder is usually then applied to the clean tip
in a process called tinning.]
When
you notice that an iron is not performing as well as it did when it
was new you will find that poor thermal transfer from the element to
the work is usually the cause. Improper care and maintenance and the
lack of a periodic cleaning of the bit's shank can cause a layer of
oxides, which will inhibit the transfer of heat through the bit.
Always ensure plug style bits are properly seated into the elements
before heating the iron. If a bit is not inserted fully into the
element there may be a gap behind the bit. This gap can cause a hot
spot within the element causing a premature failure of the soldering
iron.
Courtesy
of American
Beauty Tools
To
avoid using abrasives, cleaning with sal ammoniac is recommended.
This comes in a block. You rub the soldering iron bit on the surface.
As the surface becomes hot, it begins the cleaning process, noted by
the smoke rising from the block. When the block under the bit becomes
clear, the bit will be clean and can be tinned as above. If this is
done at the end of each session of soldering, the bit will last and
will be ready for soldering immediately when you next need to use it.
Tinning
Introduction
Proper
care and maintenance of your soldering iron bit involves tinning,
wiping (and wetting) and also periodic cleaning of the bits shank.
These actions are very important and quite simple to perform, but are
often neglected. When performed properly they will not only ensure
the longest possible working life for your soldering iron bits, but
they will also have positive effects on the overall performance of
your soldering iron.
Tinning
Tinning
may not be necessary if the bit you are using is new and arrives
pre-tinned from the manufacturer, or has been used previously and
been properly maintained. When a bit does need to be tinned (or
re-tinned) it must be clean and free of any surface oxidation before
it will accept any solder. Once the bit is properly tinned, care
should be taken to prevent bit de-wetting by occasionally cleaning
and adding small amounts of fresh solder, especially if the bit is
being subjected to long periods of inactivity or idling.
If
the bit to be tinned is unplated copper it should be cleaned and
dressed with a single cut, flat file. After filing the bit it should
be heated in the iron. When the bit reaches the lowest temperature
required to melt solder, a rosin core solder should be fed onto the
bit. Do not allow the iron temperature to rise too high before
applying the solder, because excess heat will cause the bit surface
to re-oxidize and no longer accept the solder.
If
the bit is plated it should never be filed, or heavily abraded. Care
should be taken to ensure the plating is not damaged or removed, as
this will shorten the working life of the bit dramatically. When
pre-cleaning is necessary for plated bits, they should be cleaned
with a mildly abrasive emery cloth and may require an acid flux to
remove the oxides before tinning, or re-tinning.
Courtesy
of American
Beauty Tools
Wiping
the Bit
During
use a bright, thin, but evenly tinned surface must be maintained on
the working portion of the bit. Oxidation and contaminants must be
continually removed from the bit surface to achieve maximum
performance. This will help to ensure the proper transfer of heat
from bit to work and will eliminate the possibility of impurities
being transferred into the solder joint.
Between
each solder application simply wipe the working area of the bit clean
on a damp cellulose sponge to remove the dross and oxides that will
accumulate and add small amounts of fresh solder to the bit as
needed. A gentle wiping is all that is required and care must be
taken not to over wipe the bit, because oxidation will occur on the
surface quite rapidly if all of the solder has been removed. Once
this oxidation occurs it becomes difficult, or even impossible for
solder to wet to the bit. It then becomes necessary to properly clean
and re-tin the bit in order to regain the appropriate wetting action
required for adequate performance. When you have finished the
soldering application, you should wipe any contaminates from the
bit's surface and add a small amount of fresh solder to it before
allowing the iron to cool. This layer of solder ensures protection
from oxidation of the bit between uses and will help to extend the
bit's working life.
Courtesy
of American
Beauty Tools
Cleaning
It
is important to periodically clean the shank of the plug style bits
as well as the inner surface of the element. This is done to keep the
bit from seizing in the element and also to keep from building a
layer of oxides and contaminates that would obstruct the transfer of
heat from the element to the bit. After allowing the iron to
completely cool the bit should be removed and the bit shank and inner
walls of the element should be wiped clean with a mildly abrasive
emery cloth or soft wire brush. This cleaning process should be done
as often as needed, depending on the work environment, but not less
than once a week.
Courtesy
of American
Beauty Tools
Care
in the operation of irons
The
most important element in the deterioration of soldering iron bits is
long idle times. This is where you leave the iron on, and not in use,
for a long time.
Have
everything ready when you start soldering, so the iron will be used
continuously, and will not sit there building up heat, while you get
ready to use it again. An idle iron will keep heating to its maximum
capacity, and without anything to transfer the heat to, it will start
burning off the tinning, after a short while. So if you will not be
using the iron for a while turn it off until you are ready again.
The
other elements leading to deterioration in performance come from lack
of
cleaning
and tinning
of the tip. When the coating of solder burns off or is coated with
carbon you get poor heat transfer from tip to working surface making
it appear that the iron is not heating properly.
Soldering
Ingredients and Methods
The
soldering process may be accomplished in a wide variety of ways, but
the four primary ingredients required will remain the same. They are;
the base metal (or metal items being joined) a type of flux (or a
method of cleaning and maintaining the surface to be soldered), the
solder and a source of heat. It is important to match the soldering
method and the equipment that will be used, to the soldering
application that is being considered.
Base
Metal
The
base metal is the metal that is in contact with the solder and forms
an intermediate alloy. There are many metals that will react
willingly with solders to form a strong chemical and physical bond,
while others can be very difficult, or even impossible to solder.
Flux
Flux
is used to eliminate minor surface oxidation and to prevent further
oxidation of the base metals surface during the heating process.
Although there are many types of flux, each will include two basic
parts, chemicals and solvents. The chemical includes the active
portion, while the solvent is actually the carrying agent. It is the
solvent that determines the cleaning method required to remove the
remaining residue after soldering.
Solder
Solder
is the alloy used to create the solvent action, which generates the
bond between the base metals. The type and form of the solder is very
important and must be determined by the individual application being
performed, as well as the base metals and soldering method being
employed.
Methods
There
are several methods, as well as a wide variety of tools available to
perform the task of soldering. Some of the current methods that are
available include induction, conduction, ultrasonic, flame, dipping,
resistance, oven and wave soldering. Some of these methods involve
the use of small inexpensive hand tools, while others may require
large and expensive machinery, equipment and tools. It is a good idea
to become educated on the various methods and tools that are
available, in order to insure that you are utilizing the best,
safest, most efficient and economical means available for your
specific soldering application.
Courtesy
of American
Beauty Tools
Thanks for A LOT of useful information. I need help choosing a soldering iron for soft soldering of charms and jewelry. I've gone through 3 models and seven tips now....the soldering tips are disintegrating on me! I don't understand why. Is it because I'm useing cheap models? 25w, 45w and 60? I thought maybe it was the chemical flux vs. rosin flux. Or is it the corrosive sal ammoniac? Then I read maybe it's the tips...they must be of ironclad. I'm lost. Can you help?
ReplyDeleteI have never had a tip wear out unless it was really used ,try a quality iron ,some of mine are quite iold m but i just bought a new one from a popular company ,and have used it thruogh a few projects with no visible wear ,i use a homade voltage controller , but you can just unplug ot to , make sure its not on and unused for a long time too ,goog luck kevin
ReplyDeleteSal ammoniac block usage is highly debated. In the past it was the method of choice for copper tips. With the plated tips of today, most people find wiping the tip on a damp sponge as they solder & occasionally dipping it in flux works well without the risk of damaging the tip. Use of a brass brush to clean the portion of the tip that is not plated is helpful. Remember to clean & apply solder to the tip when you are though for the day to help protect it.
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ReplyDeleteThank you for sharing working of soldering iron . I must say this blog is very expressive and understandable to read or to understand things. Thanks !!
ReplyDelete"""It was really insightful. Thanks for the info.
ReplyDeleteWanna have more contents from you. Cheers”"""
Also, You can Check Solder flux for electronics
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