Health Risks from Lead/Tin Solder

"Lead solder – is an open window or an open door in my greenhouse studio required, and in either case do I need some sort of extractor device."

The fumes are not from the lead or solder, they are from the flux.  Eye protection is important.  Gentle ventilation is sufficient.  A small fan to create a current of air to the outside will do of there is no other ventilation.

“If you give items away/sell them. What safety advice do you give to people.”

Lead is only dangerous if consumed.  It is not absorbed through the skin, only by transfer from the skin to the mouth.   Once the piece is handled, wash hands before eating, drinking or touching eyes.

“Is lead free solder a better option for small sculptures, which are not jewellery.”

The risks of lead poisoning are greatly exaggerated. If the pieces are not worn, the risks are minimal. If the pieces are not handled, there should be no transfer to the digestive system. Lead free solder is more difficult to work than a lead/tin alloy.

“What gloves are good to prevent cuts. I’m presuming disposable gloves are best for soldering.”

Skin tight cut resistant gloves are best, but are uncomfortable for long use periods. They can be used for soldering too. Honestly, I don’t use gloves for anything, and my blood lead levels have been below the minimum for the 30 years I have been working with lead and solder.

These are my opinons, of course.

The best guidance on health and safety for stained glass workers, is Greg Rawls’ website.  His career was in industrial health and safety until retirement a couple of years ago. He gives sensible, scientifically researched advice, which is not alarmist.

Metal Rods for Strength

I want to stick a steel rod inside the channel of the H section of lead came. Super glue doesn't work long term, any ideas what glue to use?

Some people advocate wrapping the rod with copper foil and use that as a base to solder the foil to the lead came. This relies on the strength of the adhesive just as super glue does. It will fail in the long term.

There is a method suggested by Gene Mallard years ago that I have used successfully. It encases the rod within two overlapping “H” cames and does not rely on glues at all. It is illustrated here:

Finishing Copper foil Projects

What order do you clean/wax/patina?

A question with many answers.

Almost everyone agrees that cleaning all flux and oil residues are the first stage of finishing. Once the panel is rinsed and dry the stage is set for the finish. The solder is then cleaned of any oxidisation by using steel wool, brass wire brush or some other mild abrasive.

However the industry does not use any metal in the cleaning of any surface to be patinated. Never use abrasive or corrosive materials to clean solder lines holding glass.  The most aggressive cleaner used is that intended for fibreglass baths. Do not use metal or scouring pads when cleaning.

Again opinion differs on the order of processes:

Some wax the solder lines and polish before applying patina.

Some apply patina and wax afterwards.

Both claim success with their method.

Comments from industry indicate that the order is:

Clean

Patina

Protect

Fluxed Foil

 If you take a breaks from soldering do you need to clean it right away or is flux okay to sit? 

Fluxes are mild acids. If left a long time, they will corrode the copper foil – not enough to damage it, but enough that the solder will not take to the foil as it should.   A long time is measured in days rather than hours.

If the flux has been left overnight, it probably will be OK.  The test is whether the solder flows as it did before the interruption.  If it does not, then the flux needs to be cleaned off the foil, and the foil polished with steel wool before re-fluxing.

Liquid flux needs to be used before it dries to be active.  Any interruption which will be long enough to allow the flux to become dry will mean a clean up of the surface is necessary before leaving the piece for a day or more.

Soldering Interruptions

Do you have to finish soldering/cleaning all in one go? 

Interruptions in soldering are possible, but they should not be long. The flux is an acid and will affect the copper foil. The acid although mild, will began to cause enough corrosion to make further soldering difficult after a few days or a week. If the recommenced soldering is not working as previously, the flux needs to be cleaned off and the oxidisation layer removed from the foil. The easiest way is to use fine steel wool and carefully polish the foil with it. Then flux the area you think you can accomplish in the time you have.

If there is likely to be a significant time before soldering can begin again, clean off the flux and finish with a neutralising compound, or a solution of baking soda. Dry and cover with a plastic sheet, or if small enough, put it into a sealable plastic bag.

If it is a big job in relation to the time available, only flux what can be achieved in that time. This saves clean up time. Although it may be necessary to polish a thin layer of corrosion from the foil before resuming the soldering.

Cleaning Solder Beads

After soldering, cleaning and drying your piece is essential to good patina results.  Ensure the panel is completely dry, not just the solder lines.  Many people recommend metal wools or brushes, but the information from industry is to use mild non-metallic materials to prepare the solder lines for patination.

Green scrubbies, or more environmentally friendly plastic free scrubbers are a good choice.  A short bristled plastic free brush that is not really stiff will work well too.  

The cleaning solution should not be anything more abrasive than that used on fibreglass bath fittings.  If this needs to be used to be sure of clean solder, the panel must be rinsed again with water that has as few chemicals and minerals as possible.

Omitting this step increases the chances of developing whitish blotches later on the solder lines. However, including this step makes a better base for applying the patina, if you are using any. 

Revised January 2026

Hinges in Sun catchers

How critical is it to reinforce hinge joints?

It is often suggested that straight, or nearly straight, joint lines need to be reinforced. “Restrip” or similar reinforcements within the hinge are often suggested to strengthen the panel.

However, such reinforcement within the bands will do nothing to resolve the hinge problem. To make a panel resistant to folding at the hinge, the reinforcement needs to be at right angles to the hinge. This will resist the bending of the panel most effectively.

If the hinge joint does not extend to the outside of the panel, external reinforcement will be needed from side-to-side to strengthen the panel against bending.

In a hanging item bending at a hinge is not the same kind of problem. What is a concern is that the pieces will separate. Edge reinforcement such as wire soldered to the edge all around the panel. This is because the adhesive is degraded by the heat of soldering and cannot be relied upon to hold the weight below the hinge joints.

Zinc came borders are often recommended as the solution to creating stiffer panels. It certainly has strength advantages, but is generally limited to straight lines or regular curves. For more free form pieces, soldering a thin copper wire to the edges and covering with hobby came provides a strong edge to a hanging panel. The wire also can provide strong hanging points independent of solder lines emanating from the interior.